I’m one of the very lucky winners of Denyse Beaulieu’s preview of the new fragrance “Vamp à NY” by much loved perfumer Olivia Giacobetti for the perfume house Honoré des Prés. Please read Denyse’s review here for her take on the fragrance.
My sample arrived in the mail today, and I’m thrilled; not just because I get to be part of a select group of people to preview it, but also because I actually like it. Tropical fragrances just don’t do it for me, generally, and tuberose tops my list of notes to “keep trying.” Because you can’t really give up on such a pillar of perfumery, right?
Along this vein, I’ve been desperately eager to try Nuit de Tubereuse, the latest effort from Bertrand Douchafour, which is supposedly radically unlike any other tuberose fragrance out there. Despite my lemming NdT, I haven’t had any other white florals on my radar.
What’s cool about Vamp à NY is that I shouldn’t like it. It contains the aspects of tuberose that I dislike–my first impressions (before re-reading Denyse’s review) include:
white, creamy, and reminiscent of Smarties brand candy.
I shouldn’t like it based those impressions… but on to why I do.
While being all of the above listed things (to my nose), it’s also light and airy–it’s a potent fragrance, but also effervescent. It practically sparkles on the skin, and I can only smell it when I bring my wrist to my nose (unlike other tuberoses in my acquaintance). It’s tropical yes, but without the screaming hawaiian shirt… the image I’m thinking of is that of the tourist versus the local. The tourist actively pursues the place, hopping from one “must-see” sight to the next, trying to get a years worth of exploration done in five days. The local, well… the local shies away from the tour bus, and gets to explore intimately.
I could also use the example of the lovers caress versus a drunken one-night-stand (no offense to you white floral lovers out there–some of you smell great in them!). But you see where I’m going.
I need to spend some time localizing myself with Vamp à NY, but I can tell you I’m really, really looking forward to it.
Yesterday I got a weird hairspray note when I first sprayed myself in the morning… it’s interesting how Vamp smells different to me on different days. Today, no hairspray, and the dry-down (where I am about two hours in) I’m getting a resinous vanilla ode to Guerlainade.
Today, I’m thinking, “Full bottle in my future!” Until next time…
The final verdict? Undecided. Vamp is beautiful, but I’m not sure that it’s me. The fact that I’m still wearing it days and days later attests to its quality and overall attractiveness, and I can’t even pinpoint what it is I’d like added or taken away. I’ve got about half of my sample left, and I’ll keep wearing it until it’s gone… if I find I can’t live without it, well, I guess I’ll know for sure then!