There were rumors on the blogoshpere that the newest release from Parfums de Nicolaï, Kiss Me Tender, bore resemblance to L’Heure Bleue—which would be appropriate, given Patricia de Nicolaï’s Guerlain genetic heritage—and this is true, in spirit at least.

KMT opens with a blast of capital “H” Heliotrope and powdery, candied violet. In small doses, I like the effect of heliotrope, but here it’s just too much. Same with the violet. It’s both sweeter and more gourmand than it’s Guerlain predecessor. Supposedly, there are other notes, but I suspect that I’m hypernosmic to those two that I have low tolerance for.

However, it is beautiful—and I wouldn’t mind smelling it on someone else; it would be especially great on a young, dark-haired retro beauty.

Painting by Waterhouse.