Danielle and I have been chatting online about L’Heure Bleue, she having VERY very kindly sent me samples of vintage parfum and EDT to compare with the modern EDP I have from The Perfumed Court. I sketched for her my impressions of how the three compare, and Danielle suggested I post them on the blog. Thanks for the invitation Danielle! Here is what I wrote:
The main thing I notice is that the although the EDP and EDT seem similar to me on opening, the EDT retains a slightly sharp twang to it for some time, whereas the EDP softens almost immediately and becomes gentler, richer and rosier. The parfum, I thought, brings out some of the citrus and bergamot at the top more noticeably than in the other versions.
Not surprisingly the EDT is the lightest version but that doesn’t (for me) mean thin, and I like it a lot. I notice that what you have sent me is vintage EDT, so my next task will be to compare that to a spritz of the modern EDT from a shop tester. I remember somehow not liking the EDT last time I did this, but department stores are not ideal for properly testing and getting to know a fragrance.
On the whole I didn’t think that there were vast differences between the different concentrations. (I also think this – heretic that I am – about Mitsouko EDT and EDP.) Not like, say, Chanel No 19 or Chamade, where there is a different character to each concentration (I think).
To that I would add that, having done the three-way comparison a few more times, the ‘play-doh’ accord that many people notice in L’Heure Bleue (and which does not bother me) seems to me most noticeable in the EDT, diminishing to least in the parfum. Still, I think all three are beautiful and I would not dismiss the EDT as inferior at all. The wonderful thing about L’Heure Bleue is not just the scent on the skin, lovely though that is, but the veil that it creates around the wearer.
I don’t claim to have the most discriminating nose, so if you disagree, please comment!